We’re up and out early to miss the tourist hordes at Saqsaywaman (pronouncing the name as ‘sexy-woman’ gets you close), a walled Incan complex overlooking the city of Cusco. Rubin considers this site the most significant of Incan architecture based on the massive size and interlocking fitting of the stones used to construct the walls & foundations. The site was laid out in the shape of a puma, the Inca dynasty’s symbol. Plundered by the Spaniards and used as a quarry for materials to build colonial Cusco for over 400 years the site is still incredible.
Nearby are the ruins of Puka Pukara, an Incan checkpoint that overlooked the valley and Inca Trail entering Cusco. Much of the site is in disrepair, but it’s strategic value is evident. Also nearby is the holy temple of Quenqo, with canals and an amphitheater carved out of limestone rock. Death rituals and blood sacrifices were thought to have been carried out in times of social stress.
On the way back to Cusco we visited a weaving center where traditional processes are practiced. It’s quite a place with textiles from various Peruvian cultures displayed. Techniques the ancients used are employed to create museum-quality weavings for sale.
Back in Cusco, we visited the Santo Domingo Church built on top of the remains of the Incan temple Qurikancha. Qurikancha, Temple of the Sun, was the most important in the Incan capital with walls & floors covered in solid gold. Plundered by the Spaniards the Inca stonewalls remain.
A few blocks from our hotel is Cusco Cathedral, located on the Plaza de Armas. The interior is spectacular and has been dedicated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Also near our hotel is the perfectly cut ‘twelve-angled stone’, recognized as an example of perfectionist Incan architecture. Amazing!
We bid Rubin adios – he’s been an exceptional guide.
D.
Of course, Rubin would like an early start this morning as we have various places to visit. After a nice breakfast we head first to Saqsaywaman to avoid the crowds. Saqsaysaman is a UNESCO heritage site built by the Killke people in 900 BC. The Incas would populate and expand the site beginning in the 13th century. The dominant Incan construction technique of fitted stones with no mortar is on spectacular display here. How they moved the massive stones is a mystery.
Next, we head to Puka Pukara, thought to have been built as a military base and lookout to guard the entrance to Cusco. The architecture is more functional than other sites, the stones used to build most of the walls are very irregularly shaped, stacked together in kind of a here-and-there manner.
Along the route we have the chance to visit the museum and shop of Peruvian Master Weaver Eddie Sulca. A third-generation artist, he is a master of the punto arwi weaving technique of the Paracus culture. He hand-colors his wool exclusively with natural dyes made from the local flora of Peru. I have been waiting this whole trip to find good Peruvian tapestry, I confess – I made a purchase. The museum boasts ancient textiles from the Paracas, Wari and other indigenous people.
Our next stop is at Qenqo, one of the largest huacas (holy places) in the Cusco Region. Many huacas were based on naturally occurring rock formations. Oengo was believed to be a place where human sacrifice and mummification were performed. Human sacrifice was rare in Incan culture.
Last stop is at Qurikancha, the Incan Temple of the Sun. The Spaniards destroyed much of the temple, but left the foundations of the Incan temple. These foundations were exposed during a later earthquake.
Rubin suggested the restaurant Cicciolina for dinner. It’s an easy walk and a great meal. We turn in early as we have a 4:40 am pickup for the airport.
