Today is a visit to the ‘Pampas’ region, some 90 north of Buenos Aires, where the Gaucho tradition remains. A large part of the Argentinian history is tied up with the Gauchos. Gauchos are of mixed Spanish and Native American heritage. They were originally a nomadic people and were well known for their skill with horses. They came to prominence during the Argentina War of Independence during the early 1800’s. They banded with the patriots and provided support by using their knowledge of the land to do scouting, setting up ambushes and gathering intel. After the war, they settled in the lowland Pampas working on estancias (ranches), mustering cattle and chasing down runaways. Modernization has reduced the need for the Gauchos and many moved away from the lowlands to pursue work in other areas. Some have stayed and still work traditionally.
Our first stop is at the historic and well-preserved town of ‘San Antonio de Areco’, known for it’s cobblestone streets and Gaucho tradition. One of the first towns in Buenos Aires province, it was sacked many times by nomadic nativesand abandoned . There is a beautiful square and church, San Antonio de Padua’ to visit.
San Antonio de Areco
A little north of San Antonio de Areco is ‘Estancia El Ombu’, a large working ranch employing Gauchos and insight into estancia life and culture. Things start off with a snack of empanadas and wine/beer. Probably the best empanada so far. After the ranch tour via horse-drawn carriage, we have lunch the ‘Gaucho’ way – a traditional asado (barbeque). They grilled about every known piece of meat known to man over open fire. We make our way through offal, pork, chicken and beef. Lomo (tenderloin) is saved for last and it’s great.
After our meal is a demonstration of horse handling. The Gauchos trained their horses by winning the trust of the animal instead of breaking its spirit, think ‘Horse Whisperer’. It was amazing what the horse would let the handler do to it. At the end, we were treated to some traditional folk music and dancing.
Estancia el Ombu
We arrived back to the hotel early evening. There’s no need for dinner after the asada so we organized our packing for an early pickup for tomorrow’s flight. Around the corner from the hotel is Patagonia Brewing. Not to miss an opportunity to mix with the locals, we stopped in for a parting few drinks.
Buenos Aires was great. We’ll definitely come back and stay longer, as it is a very vibrant city with lots to do.
Mañana we leave for Patagonia – ‘The End of the Earth’!
Fantastic pictures, thanks so much for sending