Today’s wine touring is in the Maipo Valley, specifically the ‘Alto’ section along the Andes. It’s a large region along the eastern and southern edges of the Santiago metropolitan area. Some of the wineries are actually accessible by the city’s subway system – not, however, ‘alto’ where we’ll be.
Maurice is fun to tour with and makes a point to include food stops that feature local specialties. On the way out of the city, we stop for interesting break cakes prepared in brick ovens. The place is really interesting. The owner, a woman, had her restaurant built around two massive trees. Very cool.
Perez Cruz is a vanity winery owned by a well-to-do family from Santiago. The winery was started as a hobby with little realization of how excellent the terroir is for bold reds, especially Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenere. The winery’s architecture is fantastic, as is the tour.
Lunch is at a favorite of Maurice’s family serving traditional Chilean barbeque and side dishes. Later, we visited Maurice’s home, met his family, and enjoyed some of his private stash. He has wonderful view of the Andes from his patio. Our tour wraps up with a visit to Cousino Macul, a historic winery inside the city limits. Beautiful grounds and courtyard.
We are just settling into our apartment after being dropped off and the earthquake starts. It’s not long (10 seconds or so) but feels pretty solid. We learn later it was a 6.1 and buildings in downtown Santiago were swaying. The locals just laughed – no worries for them until things get near an ‘8’.
D.
We have another day of wine touring today, exploring the wines of the Maipo Valley. En route we stop at a small place that makes a unique bread in adobe brick ovens. Maurice buys a bag fresh from the oven for a small snack. Our first stop is Perez Cruz located in the Maipo Alta Valley (High valley). We have a private tour with a lovely young lady. The soil here is very rocky and the wines show the minerality. We tour the vineyards, wine making facility and cellars where we have the opportunity to barrel taste the same wine, one in French Oak and one in American Oak. There is a difference. The winery was designed by noted architect José Cruz Ovalle and is both beautiful and functional.
Next, we need to stop at the ATM, Banco de Chile – located on the side of the road in what appears to be a phone booth, but it works.
We stop for lunch at a local restaurant, La Vaquita Etcha, that specializes in Chilean food. Maurice breaks out a very good bottle of Santa Rita Carmenere to go with lunch. We were supposed to go to Santa Rita today, but they were closed so we go to Maurices’ house to meet his daughters and taste some of his private collection.
Finally, we finish at Vina Cousino Macul, a very well-respected winery in the lower Maipo Valley. We have a tasting in their beautiful courtyard. We head back to Santiago for the evening.
We have not been home long and suddenly, everything starts shaking. Yes, we are having an earthquake; a 6.1. Dick does take me to the best places.
M
