We’ve been in a remote part of Northern Peru for a few days with extremely limited internet access, hence the late postings. After spending a day hanging around the lodge so as not to be far from a toilet, we seemed to have gotten past the worst of the Norovirus and are heading out this morning to visit Kuelap. Kuelap is a very significant site to the Chachas dating from 500 AD until 1570 AD. Along the route to Kuelap, we viewed several burial sites in the cliffs with the signature sarcophagi and a least two rock paintings.
The original route to Kuelap from Cocachimba was over a three hour drive, but several years ago, the government of Peru installed a tram system that will take you up the mountain to the original parking lot in about 20 minutes once you get to the tram area (still almost an hour from Cocachimba).
Unfortunately, you still must hike up the mountain to get to the actual ruins – an elevation of 9,800 + feet. Definitely a bit of a challenge after being down and out the day before. There was an option to take a horse up the mountain, but it’s been a long time since I’ve been on one.
The site is quite large and is spread over 540 acres. It continues to be excavated and is trying to gain UNESCO status.
After spending about 4 hours hiking around the site, we return to the small village of Tinto for some lunch. We head on to Leymebamba and the ‘Hummingbird Inn’ for the evening.
M.
After more than a few rolls of TP and a day hanging around the lodge our heads (and bowels) cleared up and we headed out for the prize of Northern Peru archaeology – Kuelap, the Imperial City of the Chachas, the ‘Warriors of the Clouds’.
The route to Kuelap follows the Utcubamba River, sacred to the Chachas. The length of the river contains a large number of sarcophagi thousands of feet above the valley floor. The sarcophagi contain the mummies of Chachas elite along with food and tools needed for their afterlife. Some have painted caps, some plain, depending on the subculture. What is amazing is that all are in open caves carved into sandstone with a rock overhang to prevent rain damage and within an altitude of 7500 – 8000 ft. in elevation, a narrow band where the local winds are ‘dry’. The dry winds aid in the mummification process. Sadly, most of the sites have been plundered by tomb raiders denying archaeologists context. Our guide, Julio, stops many times along the route where we use his spotting scope to capture details of the sites.
The small village of Tinto is the gateway to the Kuelap site. As we pull off the road to have lunch a ‘chicken sale’ is underway. It was an interesting and very serious activity. Critters are weighed and a lot of discussion occurs before the conclusion of the sale.
The ruins are now accessible via cable car – the first in Peru. Actually, it is only the base of the ruins which is accessible. It’s still a steep(!) one-hour hike to the site. Very remarkable. Constructed nearly a thousand years before the Inca and occupied for that time, Kuelap was the heart and imperial city of the Chachas where only the elite and artisans to support them lived. The building foundations and walls which remain suggest a very dense city. At nearly 10,000 feet the site appears to be impregnable. All the entrances funnel arrivals from a wide path (4 people) to a single person at entry. Originally, archaeologists considered the city to be a fortress, but current thought suggests a holy site and residence for the elite. The altitude and weakness from our bout with ‘travelers disease’ made our wandering of the site pretty tough. Julio’s patience was admirable.
Wild llamas roam the grounds. Llamas were the main pack animal (and sometimes food source) for the Chachas. Once the Spaniards arrived with horses their utility ended and the carefully managed herds were released to the wilds. Their descendants remain.
D.
