Rubin is a big fan of missing crowds so we’re off early to visit Ollantaytambo village and Inca complex before the savages arrive. The village is very well preserved and has some of the oldest continuously occupied dwellings in South Americas. It is also quite popular as a tourist attraction as it is near the starting point of the 4-day hike known as the Inca Trail.
Inca Ollantaytambo is magnificent and comprised of a major ceremonial center accessed via a series of steep stairways that climb a series of terraces. The terraces at Ollantaytambo are considered ‘high-prestige’ in that they are built to a higher standard than used for agricultural activities. Walls are made of cut stones rather than fieldstone indicating demonstration of power and ceremony rather than cultivation. Massive storehouses with sophisticated ventilation systems to aid in preservation were constructed in the hills surrounding main site. During the Spanish conquest the site’s fortifications were upgraded to such a degree that Manco Inca (emperor) defeated the Spaniards in the ‘Battle of Ollantaytambo’ with brilliant strategy. Well worth an extended read.
A short drive from Ollantaytambo are the ‘Salinas de Maras’ or Salt Pans of Maras. A natural spring feeds a salt-rich stream through a patchwork of some 4000 shallow pools (pans) where the water is allowed to evaporate, and salt crystals scraped from the ground with simple instruments. Pans have been ‘owned’ by individual families for generations (over 1000 years pre-Incan). Packaging and sales are handled by a village cooperative. We observed an ageless process of production.
After another short drive we arrive at the archaeological site of Moray where the Inca developed a system of circular agricultural terraces connected by an irrigation system. Moray is thought to be a agricultural lab where the Inca used the terraces to create micro-climates and experiment with growing various products. The terraces contain soil that appear to be imported from different parts of the vast Incan empire. Amazing stuff – no primitive culture here!
After a fine ‘picnic lunch’ overlooking the Andes (with a native herder watching her cattle in the background) we return to Sol y Luna for an evening coctail. Too cool!
D.
We have our breakfast at ‘Sol y Luna’ on the terrace overlooking the pool and only sample the buffet as we are still too full from yesterday to add eggs or French toast. We start early with a trip to Ollantaytambo, one of the few towns to survive in its current layout from Incan times. We are still adjusting to the altitude (now at 9160 ft about sea level). We are following Rubin’s advice and get to the very popular village early before the other/larger tour groups come through so it is a very private experience.
Ollantaytambo was built around the mid 1400’s and was the royal estate of the Inca Emperor Pachacuti, who conquered the region. At the time of the Spanish conquest of Peru, it served as a stronghold for Manco Inca Yupanqui, leader of the Inca resistance. Much of the site survives today and is very impressive. It is also quite a demanding hike. By 10:30, we have finished exploring the site, just before the crowd of tour groups arrive.
From Ollantaytambo, we head to Maras, to view the giant salt pans that the locals use to harvest salt from an underwater ocean as they have done since before the Incas arrived in the area.
Next, we go to the unique Incan site of Moray, with its enormous iconic circular depressions, believed to have been an Incan agricultural center. It is believed to have been used to develop microclimate versions of plants that were transported from elsewhere for adaptation to the general Inca environment.
Rubin has arranged for a ‘picnic’ lunch. Set in a tent overlooking the Andes mountains, a local chef has set up a temporary kitchen to prepare our food. We start with some fresh bread and marinated olives accompanied by Chincha beer or a Sauvignon Blanc. Next, we have an amazing rainbow trout ceviche. The entrée consists of a chicken breast pounded and rolled with a filling accompanied by rice and fresh vegetables. A dessert follows. Not what I normally think of when I think picnic lunch.
By now, it is late afternoon and we return to our ‘casita’ for the evening. Again, there’s no need for dinner – but we hook up with the bartender for drinks later. He tested out a few new recipes on Dick and me. Excellent day!
M
