Today’s drive is to be a long one – 8 hours on small winding roads through the heart of the Andes and over 12,000 feet at some points. Originally, we were to leave around 9:00 AM, but learned last night the road will be closed at 8:00 and that there is no alternate route. So, the alarm goes off at 4am, too early – I am not a morning person. We quickly dress and finish gathering our belongings to depart. About 20 after, a porter comes to our lodge to take our suitcases down the long winding trail to the entrance of the Hummingbird Lodge. As we are leaving, along the path is one of the three senoritas who have been taking care of us. Wrapped in her bathrobe and carrying a box, she gives us some slices of fresh banana cake to take with us for breakfast. We had told them not to worry about us this morning, so I am very touched that she would.
Enrique (our highly competent driver) and Julio are ready to go. The road we are traveling on is considered two lanes although it is highly doubtful that two vehicles could be side by side at any one time. On the right is a straight cliff, on the left, the mountain. Lonely Planet calls it “the wild and scenic route” between Chachapoyas and Cajamarca. It is totally dark out. Enrique is driving cautiously – very unusual for him. He has on some Peruvian tunes and is chewing coca leaves furiously, whatever it takes to keep him alert, I‘m all for. A little before 6, the sun starts peeking through the clouds, we are so high up we are level with the clouds. As we cross the continental divide, Julio puts on “Here comes the Sun” by the Beatles – quite apropos.
By 7 we have gotten to the point where the road was to be closed. The Gendarmes are there preparing to block the road, after some back and forth with Julio we are cleared to go through. Good job Enrique!
We arrive at Celedin, a sleepy little town known for their straw hats. A good place to stop and have a small breakfast and stretch the legs. Then onward for another 4 hours, it is truly a scenic drive.
We arrive in Cajamarca shortly after one. We are staying at Laguna Sec, once a public park, now private property, built next to the hot springs. The complex is gorgeous with multiple pools, saunas, gardens, and a small ‘zoo’. The hot water for the rooms comes directly from the hot springs – no shortage for a nice long shower.
After a small nap, we tour the grounds and then get some dinner at the restaurant. I am hopeful I am getting better so I try some baked chicken and rice for dinner. We have a 5:30 am pickup in the morning for our flight to Lima – so another early night.
M.
The road from Leimebama to Cajamarca is considered one of the most scenic in Peru. We left early (4:30 AM) to avoid road closures so the first few hours of travel were in the dark. VERY dark, VERY windy, VERY narrow & curvy roads – I’m VERY glad I wasn’t driving!
The road’s reputation is well earned. While quite scary, it is spectacular. As Mary noted, our guide Julio bluetoothed ‘Here Comes the Sun’ as the morning sun peeked over the Andes – great!
The entire length of the route is at high elevation – from 9,000 to 12,000 ft. and up. We see quite a few folk tending fields or potato and herding cattle. It must be very difficult living in such an extreme environment. At one point the road was blocked by what must have been the weekly cattle market. It took quite some time to thread our way through the mass of people & beasts. Evidence of corruption was all too common. A new bridge connecting a very poor town with the main road was closed – embezzled funds & poor engineering. Another village’s beautiful new market was to be torn down, never used, due to poor engineering again (built in high flood area) and restoration monies disappearing (along with the project’s sponsors). Sad.
We stopped in Celedin, a very interesting place. In honor of the town’s famous blue skies, municipal and many private buildings are painted a beautiful blue. Per Julio, Celedin is reputedly home to Peru’s ‘most beautiful women’. Young men growing up in the countryside aspire to be wedded to one! Celedin’s big claim to fame is for high-quality straw hats. The town sports a giant hat-shaped gazebo which is listed as an Atlas Obscura attraction.
Not far from our destination is the small village of Polloc. Amongst the dirt roads of the village is the amazing ‘Santuario de la Virgen del Rosario’, a work in progress created by a local artisan and his students. The mosaics and wood carvings are incredible, especially considering how tiny the village is.
Finally, on to Cajamarca. Julio gave us a quick tour of the square & major buildings (mostly cathedrals). Many of the throng in the central area wear traditional garb. We were able to visit the ‘ransom room’ which the Inca ruler Atahualpa had filled with gold to secure his release from Spanish captors. They got the gold, but executed him anyway. Our lodging is on the outskirts of town where hot springs provide for hot water and a spa.
D.
