It’s a transfer day today (actually yesterday) as we drive from Chiclayo to Cocachimba in the ‘cloud forest’ of the Andes.
About an hour north of Chiclayo we stopped to visit the ‘Valley of the Pyramids’, the capital of the Lambayeque culture in Tucume. The site is vast with 26 total pyramids occupying over 200 hectares. The surrounding land is very fertile thanks to a canal constructed the same time as the pyramids. None other than Thor Heyerdahl (of Kon Tiki fame) organized the site’s early digs.
After departing Tucume our drive took us up and over the Andes (stopping at the continental divide) into the Upper Amazon basin on the eastern slopes of the range. It was an interesting drive, seeing the transition from what looks like desert to bright green rice patties in the lower elevations to the steep terraced fields of produce, and finally the dense vegetation of the cloud forest.
Our lodging for the next few evenings is at the Gocta Lodge in the tiny village of Cocachimba. Cocachimba, interestingly enough, in the language of the ancient Chachapoya culture means ‘place where coca is bundled’. Chewing coca leaves is legal in Peru and as a mild stimulant is often used by farmers (and our driver!) to keep alert.
Our room is great – the deck overlooks Gocta Falls, said to be the 3rd largest fall in the world. Quite striking. If you are a hummingbird geek, this is the place to go as there are some 17 types which visit the grounds.
Alas, luck has run out. As careful as we have been with our eating and drinking habits I began feeling what we believe to be Norovirus (foodborne illness) late in the day and Mary was struck just before bedtime. Hopefully, this will be the 1-day illness most experience.
D.
Today is a long day, a 9-hour drive from Chiclayo to Gotca Lodge. On the way, we did stop at Tucume, a complex about an hour north of Chiclayo. It covers an area of over 540 acres and encompassing 26 major pyramids and mounds. This site was a major regional center, maybe even the capital of the successive occupations of the area by the Lambayeque/Sican (800-1350 AD), Chimú (1350–1450 AD) and Inca (1450–1532 AD). Of the 26 pyramids on site, 5 have been excavated. The unusual thing in this area is that many of the pyramids were constructed privately, not by the state. This implies they were owned by a wealthy family and not a public place for the community. Another interesting fact, the grounds are inhabited by families living on site with gardens and farm animals – cows, goats, pigs, horses, turkeys, chickens and dogs. They are allowed to live here to help protect the site from looters.
Along the way to Gotca, we pass a guy riding a donkey pulling a cart with wooden sticks on the side of the highway (where our driver is doing 120 kph).
At one point Enrique (our driver) was flagged down by two police standing in the middle of the same highway to check his papers for registration and insurance.
Another fun fact, passenger cars have no speed limit on any road, they can drive as fast as they like!
M.
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Tacume! Wow! 😲 That is fantastic.
Hope you are feeling better and enjoying your waterfall view and hummingbirds!