We checked out of ‘The Albatross B&B’ in the historic Elms building in Dornoch. We’ve got a new driver today – ‘George’ from ACD. ACD is Craig Donald’s company. Craig carried the boys around this part of the planet in 2018 and was good fun. George is a lovely old chap – quite reserved at first who retired with 35 years as a police officer and worked with Craig for his last 25 when they both retired.
Our first stop is the Urquhart Castle at Loch Ness. Built during the 13th-16th centuries it played an important role in the Wars of Scottish Independence in the 14th century. The castle passed back and forth between the Clan MacDonald and Clan Grants. Partially destroyed in 1692 to prevent its use by the Jacobites, it was permanently abandoned. The location is spectacular, sitting right on the Loch with views up and down stream.
We headed southeast, along the coast and drive by Culloden Moor, the scene of the dramatic battle which ended the Jacobite rebellion. Close by are the Clava Cairns, the remains of an ancient cemetery from 4000 years past which are set on a terrace above the river Nairn. The standing stones here were the inspiration for the opening sequence in the Outlander series. There are a couple of broaches on the site in addition to the standing stones.
Next up is lunch at the Mosset Tavern. The boys ate there in 2018 and it’s well worth another stop. Good food in a historic tavern. Don and I convinced the gals to try the haggis nachos. The reception was quite less than deserved but they did give it a try.
After lunch it’s on to the Benromach distillery for a tour and tasting. Benromach is a small facility with an excellent reputation. Mary’s comment – ‘If I do enough of these, I might finally understand the distilling process’. We’re working on it.
George drops us at our lodging at the West End Guest House in Elgin. We originally booked our lodging in late 2019 and have been rebooking and communicating with proprietor Ross since then. Great to finally meet.
It’s a short walk through downtown to our dinner down a small wynd to the Drouthy Cobbler. For the curious, ‘drouthy’ means ‘thirsty’. Evidently the pub/restaurant was named after a ‘thirsty’ gentleman who worked to salvage the ruins of the nearby cathedral.
We had a great encounter after dinner. Down another dark alley is a small craft beer bar named the ‘Against the Grain’. Lots of local beers and ‘real ales’. We struck up a conversation with Jamie who was celebrating his dog’s 4th birthday with a pint, Jamie, not the dog (seems kind of unfair). Turns out he’s an EDI consultant working out of Elgin! What are the odds?
