It was a beautiful morning and Dick was able to get some nice pics of the sunrise as we neared the West Falkland/Malvinas Island chain. The islands are formally governed by the English (and known by them as the Falklands) but also claimed by Argentina (called the Malvinas by them). In actuality, the islands are self-governed with locally elected representatives.
Our first stop in the Falkland chain is planned to be West Point Island, one of the eastern-most islands in the archipelago. Oddly, the island is privately owned with ownership dating back to the early settlers. The family who owned the island lived here for many years, growing their own vegetables and raising dairy cattle and sheep. In the late 1990’s they became friends with a couple who had sailed around the world and were living in the sheltered harbor on their boat. The owners left the island in 2008 due to advancing age and health reasons. Prior to leaving they asked the couple if they would become the caretakers, which they did. The owners had also established a tradition to offer tea and cake to visitors since the mid 1960’s and the caretakers continue that tradition as well.
The seas had calmed down and Hannah let us know we’re good to go. At last, our first landing! Our boarding group, the Chinstraps, were in the 2nd landing group. Biological control to reduce the possibility of introducing non-native species is very strict. After a bio-bath in disinfectant for our boots, we boarded the zodiacs and traversed to the island.
There is a large colony of Black-browed Albatross and Rockhopper Penguins that can be reached after a short hike. The walk to the breeding grounds was only a 1.5-mile hike but is uphill and through some rough terrain. The landscape is interesting with native and introduced grasses – it looks much like the Orkneys. There are no trees at all on any of the Falklands.
Our guides were extremely excited at seeing several mature and young ‘Striated Caracara’. Known locally as ‘Johnny Rook’, these are some of the rarest birds in the world. They were very curious and walked right up to us, clearly looking for a handout.
The albatross rookery is in an area of tall Tussock grass and there are very narrow twisting paths to walk through otherwise it is impassable. Excellent shelter for the nesting birds. The Black-browed Albatross mate for life and return to the same rookery every year and sometimes even the same nest. The chicks are now molting and will be going to sea soon. Many of their parents have already left.
Mixed in with the albatross nests is a colony of Rockhopper Penguins. They sometimes dig burrows in the Tussock grass. They are hilarious to watch as they hop up the steep slopes of the landscape – it is obvious how they got their name. They are in the ‘crested penguin’ family and are the smallest of the subantarctic penguins. They spend their winters at sea, sometimes for up to six months without coming to shore.
At the end of the hike, we stopped at the caretaker farmhouse for tea and cake, a longstanding tradition. The spread our host puts out is amazing, there must have been several dozen different kinds of cookies, quick breads, scones, etc. She says she starts baking in mid-August.
After lunch on the ship, the plan was for the vessel to make its way east to Saunders Point where there is a large colony of Magellan penguins. The first boarding group goes out on the zodiac and lands. From the Seaventure we can see the penguins on the shore greeting our companions. We’re next to bat and are in full cold weather gear. Alas, the wind picks up. Anytime wind speed reaches 30 knots zodiac travel becomes hazardous. After much discussion the expedition team decides to cancel the excursion. The landing party returns to ship and we’re told to ‘stand down’. Dang – all dressed up and nowhere to go!
Penguin count: 7,000 (Rockhopper)
Total trip penguin count: 7,000