Today is the day we finally have our cooking class. We elected to go with “Provence Gourmet” run by Chef Gilles, a one-man dynamo. His classes are extremely popular and even though I booked this before I left for France, I was barely able to get us in before we leave to go home.
We meet Gilles and our other six classmates at the main Rotunda and after quick introductions, we are off to the daily market, held in the old part of town in Place Richelme. This is a smaller market than the thrice weekly one held near us and is primarily frequented by the locals.
The focus of the class is typical Provencal cooking. Gilles has previewed the market before meeting us and proposes a menu with a starter of Charcuterie and a variety of fresh bread, followed by salad of rocket with smoked beets and shaved artichokes paired with eggs, a main dish of potatoes, carrots, pork belly, artichokes and onions cooked in a white wine, a cheese tasting and finally a nectarine clafoutis with a fresh raspberry and mint granita. We all agree that sounds yummy.
We visit several vendors at the market for vegetables, fruit, eggs and locally produced goat cheese. Then a stop at the charcutier, boulangerie, and store to round out the purchases.
We pile into Gilles van and are off to a small local winery to do a tasting and pick out the wines for our meal. We have a nice tasting at Chateau Henri Bonnaud, deciding on one white, two roses and a red for the meal.
The class is held at Gilles house, a brief ride to the outskirts of Aix. He has a 12-acre property and an outdoor area where he holds the class. He sets us all to work on various prep to create the meal. My first task is to peel and mince/crush 12 giant cloves of garlic. I also learn the proper way to handle fresh artichokes, something I have never done. The guys wound up making the granita and clafoutis. Several hours later, we all sit down to enjoy the results of our labor. A very nice meal in a beautiful setting and a nice day.
M.
Every year we try to include a cooking class when on vacation. This year we signed up for an all-day class offered by ‘Provence Gourmet’. The company is a one-man show hosted by Gilles, a local cooking enthusiast, who holds classes in Aix, Marseille, and St. Remy. There are eight of us in the group (two guys, six gals), all Americans (San Fran, Eugene, Charlotte, & Washington D.C.).
On his way to meet us, Gilles picked up some early season truffles. First up for our group is a walk to the smaller, daily market in the old section which is a little off the typical tourist trail. Gilles informs us this is the ‘locals’ market where the vendors are the actual farmers and producers. He walks us through the selection of vegetables & cheese we’ll be using for the day’s menu. Around the corner are a fine boulangerie and boucherie where we pick up more ingredients – breads and cuts for our meal.
Next up is a tasting and selection of wines at ‘Chateau Henri Bonnaud’, one of the four wineries which are part of the very small ‘Palette’ AOC. Pallette is one of the oldest appellations in France. This is the first time we’ve seen any wines from this AOC and they are all quite nice. The winery is in the middle of harvest and the crew is at work bringing in grapes for the crush. Château Henri Bonnaud also offers one of the best panoramic views of Sainte Victoire Mountain and hosts classes for those wishing to paint the mountain.
Gilles cooking class is held at his home in the village of Le Tholonet a few km southeast of Aix. There is a nice outdoor kitchen and patio where we do the prep work, assembly, and enjoy the fruits of our labor. It’s an interesting menu and tastes fantastic!
D.