We are off today to have an overnight visit on Doubtful Sound, another part of Fiordland National Park and a UNESCO heritage site. We have booked our tour with Fiordland Cruises who operate an extremely small boat in Doubtful Sound. We arrive at the departure point and meet up with our six fellow travelers for a 20-minute bus ride to Lake Manapouri, which we cross by ferry to reach Deep Cove. Upon arrival at Deep Cove, we are picked up by Clint, our skipper (and owner of the company). We have a very interesting hour drive over the Wilmot pass as there is no other way to reach the sound.
When we reach the boat, we are met by crew member Kirsten and get settled into our rooms as they prepare to depart. For some reason, Dick and I get ‘upgraded’ to the master suite for the trip, nice!
Once underway, we have a nice lunch of freshly caught lobster tails with numerous side dishes; green salad, potato salad, couscous, several different breads. After the dishes are cleared, we head to a cove for some amazing sights, kayaking and fishing for those who choose. With crew, there are only ten of us on board, it is so incredibly quiet and peaceful.
Our fellow travelers are Richard and Lindsey, honeymooners from London; Robert and Carol, retirees from the UK with a daughter in South New Zealand; Johann and Frita from Brussels. Frita is celebrating her birthday today.
Dick and the honeymooners decide to kayak, the rest to fish, I am just soaking in the sun on this beautiful day. There are numerous ocean perch caught as well as a blue cod, they will contribute to our dinner this evening.
We move up the sound, looking for wildlife and checking some of the lobster pots that Clint has out. We haul lobster catches from two of them, they will be lunch for tomorrows lucky passengers. We spot a pod of porpoises and several are playing with the boat, riding just even with the bow of the boat for several miles. We also spot a lone fur seal.
Kirsten makes an amazing meal for dinner. She uses some of the perch and makes a ceviche, then breads the rest in an herb crumb mixture and pan fries. She bakes the Blue cod with a white wine sauce, we also have a Salad with poached chicken, and a shredded leg of lamb with some fresh vegetables. Dessert is ice cream with chocolate sauce and fresh raspberries.
After dinner, Kirsten plays classical music on her portable piano. We find a small cove and anchor for the night. What a peaceful evening.
Mary
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Our lodging in Te Anau is in the heart of Fiordlands National Park. Yesterday, we toured Milford Sound which is north of Te Anau, today we head south to Doubtful Sound. Doubtful is massive, some 10 times the size of Milford.
Doubtful Sound was named by Captain James Cook who feared his ship, the Endeavor, would not be able to sail back out. So, he sailed by. It is a remote place and can only be accessed via a crossing of Manapouri Lake or from the Tasman Sea (a REALLY challenging approach). Our guides ferry us across Manapouri Lake, then up over the Wilmont Pass to the fiord. On the way through the lake, we pass the weekly barge which provides the Doubtful region with its’ weekly needs – gas, food, whatever.
We’re on an overnight trip with Fiordland Cruises, a small company, who have one of the few licenses to tour in the Sound. The ‘Southern Secret’ is super cool with six en-suite cabins, a galley, viewing level, and outdoor seating. Clint, the owner, is our skipper for the trip and Kirsten, his ‘mate’, does everything else. She’s personable, a great cook, and shares her training as a classical pianist with us after we anchor in a small inlet for the evening. It’s a surreal experience as our small group drinks wine and admires Kirstens’ play as the vessel drifts in the cove.
The weather is great all day – good sun and little wind. For most of the time, we are followed by a gull looking for handouts. Turns out he’s a regular on the tours and even has a name – ‘George’. Clint located a pod of porpoises who followed the ship for a few miles providing great excitement. A near disaster is averted just prior to dinner – Kirsten realizes we are out of propane for the stoves!! Clint negotiates a ‘borrow’ with a fellow captain – 1 canister of propane (to be reimbursed) for a head of garlic and the handoff between ships is a thing of beauty.
Remarkable scenery – just incredible.
Dick