We’re with Robyn and Susan again today. We’ve asked them to do a ‘transfer tour’ to get us from the northern Caithness coast to our next stop in Dornoch. It’s a early pickup (isn’t it always) with the two. We had a quick breakfast in the lovely dining area before heading out. Many of the long-term employees are present and have very nice things to say about King Charles and Queen Elizabeth II. Black armbands for all.
The manager at the desk recalls a song she heard as a child that mentions Pittsburgh, finds a clip and plays it for us. She said it brought back wonderful memories! One of the staff comes out as we are having breakfast and has nice long chat with us. Turns out she was the cook and, per protocol, wasn’t supposed to mingle with the guests. Ha – don’t think she cared.
We headed along the coast with stops at various archaeology sites such as Nybster Broch, remains of an Iron Age village dating from between 400 BC and 200 AD. Along the drive were the ruins of Viking Auld Wyck Castle, Sinclair Girnigoe castle and Dunbeath Harbour. We also passed through the villages of Lybster and Helmsdale, both planned villages built to resettle communities forcibly removed from the surrounding straths as part of the Highland Clearances. The Sutherlands of Dunrobin were especially cruel in their clearance policies – in some cases burning villages with no warning to force out occupants. The Sutherland and Sinclair clans are not highly regarded here.
Lunch was at ‘MacGregors at the Ben’ in Golspie. Besides being a fine place for food(Steak and Ale pie), they had over 200 whiskies’ available for tasting. We did avail ourselves of their selection.
After lunch we headed towards Dornoch on a very attractive drive along the coast and through forests to our B&B, ‘The Albatross’, in downtown Dornoch.
Our B&B is owned by a famous golf photographer and run by his wife who is from Brazil with limited English skills. Apparently, he travels a lot for work and she runs the B&B. Both couples split up to wander the city. Dick and I find a pub for dinner and watch the season finale of the Dornach Pipe Band. Beautiful bagpipe performances along with Scottish dancers. It concludes with a lone piper on the tower as a tribute to the late Queen. Quite moving at a special time to be here.
